The Gucci Tunnels
Looking back towards HCMC, you can see how it is becoming quite developed.
But just a few minutes upriver, we were able to see signs of more traditional river living.
The Cu Chi tunnel complex is just a small part of an extensive network of tunnels which have been used by the Vietnamese for centuries, but which played a key part in the guerilla warfare of the Vietnam/American War. There is about 250 km of interconnecting tunnels, all dug by hand and consisting of several levels up to 10 metres deep. There are living spaces, kitchens, hospitals, factory rooms etc – all of which allowed Vietnamese to disappear underground to escape the bombings, hide from the enemies and mount surprise attacks. The set-up was ingenious, but the living conditions would have been horrendous.
Imagine the hottest sauna you’ve ever been in…now double the heat. That’s what it felt like in this kitchen – and this one had been “tourist-ified” – it was only partially underground with a thatched roof over the top open to the air. The genuine kitchens were completely underground.
To enter the tunnels, the locals would know at least one hidden secret entry point.
Looks like plain ground, right?
Brush away the leaves, lift the lid…and Voila!
Pull the lid back over.
And no-one knows where you went.
Both Queenie and The Poolboy had a go disappearing into one of these holes. I demurred.
We watched the making of ricepaper wrappers.
Which are left out to dry in the sun.
And then it was time for our own foray into the tunnels. Together with the bulk of our group, I agreed I would do the first 20 metres of tunnel (there are exit points at 20, 40, 60 and 100 metres). The Poolboy said he wanted to do 40 metres. For some reason, our guide heard only the 40 metres, and before we knew it, we were guided past the first exit and onto the 40 metre mark.
Again, think sauna…
But in this sauna, it is pitch black, and you’re bent double as you can’t stand up. Plus, you’re part of a conga line, so you can’t stop or turn around…you just have to keep shuffling forwards.
I took a few photos as we went, and the people behind me were very appreciative, as everytime the flash went off, we could actually see something.
On the boat on the way home, our guide taught the girls some magic tricks to do with two elastic bands. Hours of fun for the cost of two lacky bands!